Field Journal · Spain

Tenerife Winter Escape: Europe’s Answer to Hawaii

Tenerife, Spain Mount Teide · Anaga · Masca February 2024 Published By Kris Hehl

Tenerife is the closest thing to Hawaii I have found in Europe, and it is warm enough for the beach all year.

My wife, my father-in-law and I spent a week on the island in February 2024, splitting our days between the Teno mountains in the west, the Anaga mountains in the northeast and Mount Teide in the middle.

Steep rocky peaks above green terraced slopes, palm trees and prickly pear cactus in the Teno mountains

The view from our villa in the Teno mountains, about 12:20 pm.

In short: Kris Hehl is a travel designer based in North Vancouver, British Columbia, licensed by Consumer Protection BC (CPBC #65932). He has travelled to more than 50 countries, explored Tenerife with his wife and father-in-law, and plans winter-sun and adventure trips for couples and families.

When I first moved to Europe, I thought Greece, Sicily or southern Spain would give me warm weather in winter. Boy, was I wrong. Tenerife is one of the only places in Europe where a sun holiday works in any month.

Every day of our week was in the mid 20s with full sun, and the sea was in the high teens, warm enough to swim. The long-term official average high in Santa Cruz in February is about 21°C, and the sea stays near 19°C.

Day One

The Teno Mountains and Masca

A few minutes later I turned toward the valley. The hamlet of Masca sits below, at the top of the Masca gorge trail.

Green valley with terraced slopes and red-roofed houses below steep rocky peaks under a clear sky

The Masca valley from our villa, about 12:25 pm.

Travel Tip

Parking in Masca village is capped at two hours between 8 am and 2 pm, so the bus is easier (as of October 2026, check before you go).

With teens, the gorge hike is worth planning around. It needs an advance booking, costs about 41 euros per non-resident adult, and children under eight are not allowed (as of October 2026, check before you go).

About half an hour later we were out on a ridge above the valleys.

Hiker in red standing on a rocky ridge above deep ravines that open toward the Atlantic

Look closely: that is me on the ridge, just before 1 pm.

This is the Hawaii side of Tenerife: sharp volcanic ridges, deep ravines and the Atlantic at the end of every valley.

In the afternoon, at about 2:20 pm, we found a natural whirlpool in the lava rock on the coast.

Swimmer in a turquoise rock pool surrounded by black lava rock and breaking white surf

A natural whirlpool in the lava rock, about 2:20 pm. Only get in when the sea is calm.

Little-Known Fact

La Graciosa became the eighth inhabited Canary Island in 2018. Tenerife is the largest and the most populous.

The islands sit off the northwest coast of Africa, but they are fully part of Spain. The food and culture were amazing all week, and the island felt far less busy than a winter week down south in North America.

Day Two

The Anaga Mountains

On day two we drove to the far northeast of the island. By 11 am we were walking through the laurel forest in Anaga Rural Park.

The road here runs between walls of rock, with the trees closing in overhead.

It felt like walking through a jungle.

Narrow paved road between mossy rock walls under a tunnel of twisted laurel forest trees

A road cut through the laurel forest in Anaga, about 11 am.

Little-Known Fact

Anaga’s laurel forest is a living relic of the Tertiary period, kept alive by trade-wind mist.

Five minutes later the trees opened onto the ridges. Green peaks, terraced valleys and cloud sitting on the sea: this is the view I still compare to Hawaii.

Green forested ridges and terraced valleys in the Anaga mountains with cloud over the sea

The Anaga ridges, about 11:05 am. The most Hawaii-like view of the trip.

Anaga is one of the oldest parts of Tenerife. UNESCO named the massif a biosphere reserve in 2015, and the island council says it has more endemic species than anywhere else in Europe.

By about 11:30 am we reached the coast, where the land drops straight into the Atlantic.

Rocky coastline with two sea stacks offshore, a small red-roofed farmhouse and deep blue Atlantic water

The Roques de Anaga off the northeast tip, about 11:30 am.

Little-Known Fact

Roque de Fuera, the outer rock, holds the only known population of its own giant lizard subspecies.

Both rocks are a strict nature reserve, open only for research, so the view from the coast is as close as anyone gets.

The coast road was the drive of the trip. Twenty minutes later we were on it, with the cliffs on one side and the sea on the other.

Coastal road along a rock face with a guardrail, the Atlantic and sea stacks on the horizon

The coast road along the Anaga cliffs in our rental car, about 11:50 am.

Travel Tip

Phones can switch to mainland Spain time. The Canaries run one hour behind, so check your clock before an early flight or a booked time slot.

After lunch we walked a ridge trail above the coast, with the road winding up the valley below and a village on the shore.

Hiker on a dry ridge trail above a winding road, terraced slopes, a coastal village and rocky peaks

Out on the ridge trail at about 2:20 pm, looking along the north coast.

From there, a secluded black-sand beach was a short drive away. By about 2:45 pm I was in the water, and yes, it was warm enough to swim.

Black-sand beach with rolling surf, two swimmers and jagged dark sea stacks under a blue sky

Swimming at a secluded beach in Anaga, about 2:45 pm. Look really closely and you can see me in the surf.

Travel Tip

Some Anaga beaches close for rockfall risk, sometimes for years, and police fine people who ignore the closures. Check local signs before you go down.

This stretch of coast felt untouched. By about 3:40 pm the low sun was lighting up the whole shoreline.

Fenced footpath on a steep slope above a rocky shore, white surf and a sea stack on the horizon

The path above the shore, about 3:40 pm.

Day Three

Mount Teide

On day three we drove up through the forest toward Mount Teide. At about 10:10 am it came into view above the trees.

Mount Teide on Tenerife, a wide grey volcanic cone with a pale summit, rising above dark green forest under a clear blue sky

Mount Teide above the forest, about 10:10 am.

Teide is the highest point in Spain, at 3,718 metres, and the centre of Teide National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2007.

It is also an active volcano. The last eruption was in 1909, from the El Chinyero vent on the island’s northwest rift.

Little-Known Fact

Measured from the ocean floor, only two volcanoes are taller than Teide: Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea, both in Hawaii.

Later that morning we hiked Teide’s upper slopes, on the winding paths near La Rambleta, more than 3,500 metres up.

Winding stone-lined path across a barren volcanic slope with a lone walker under a deep blue sky

Hiking the paths near La Rambleta, more than 3,500 metres up.

If you would rather ride than hike, the Teide cable car climbs 1,199 metres from its base station to La Rambleta, at 3,555 metres. Three high trails start from the top station.

Travel Tip

A cable car ticket does not include the summit trail. That needs a separate permit, booked in advance through Tenerife ON (as of October 2026, check before you go).

A day earlier I was swimming off a black-sand beach. Now we were in a lunar landscape, with the whole island below us.

Teide is the most visited national park in Spain and in Europe, with more than five million visitors in 2024, so go early.

Beyond the Trails

Santa Cruz de Tenerife

Not every traveller wants a ridge hike. The capital, Santa Cruz de Tenerife, suits families, culture lovers and anyone after a slower pace, and Tenerife North airport is only about 10 km away.

Families can spend a beach day at Playa de Las Teresitas, a 1.3-kilometre beach sheltered by a breakwater. Its pale sand was shipped in from the Sahara, and it opened in 1973.

Garden lovers have the Palmetum, a 12-hectare botanical garden built on a former city rubbish dump, with more than 600 palm species.

For culture, the Museo de Naturaleza y Arqueología holds the largest collection on the Guanches, the island’s people before the Spanish conquest, including their mummies. On the waterfront, Santiago Calatrava’s Auditorio de Tenerife, opened in 2003, hosts concerts.

Food lovers can try papas arrugadas, small potatoes boiled in very salty water and served with mojo sauce, at the Mercado de Nuestra Señora de África, known locally as La Recova.

And the tram runs from the city to La Laguna, whose historic centre has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1999, in about 35 minutes.

Little-Known Fact

In 1987, about 240,000 people danced to Celia Cruz at Santa Cruz’s Carnival, a Guinness world record.

Carnival dates move every year, so check them before you book.

If you love Hawaii, Mexico or the Caribbean and want somewhere new for winter sun, this is where I would send you. Before you book, these are the three things I would sort first.

Before You Go

Book the Teide summit permit well ahead if you want the top, and bring a warm layer for 3,500 metres.

Rent a car for Anaga and Teide, but take the bus into Masca, where parking is capped at two hours.

Check beach status and local signs before you swim: some Anaga beaches close for rockfall.

Three days on Tenerife, three completely different landscapes, and sunshine on every one of them. Thank you for reading along.

Plan Yours

Plan a winter-sun week in Tenerife

Tenerife pairs volcano hikes, laurel forest and black-sand beaches with warm weather all year, and the right base on the island depends on what you want to do. I plan these trips from scratch, around your group and your travel dates, for couples and families alike.

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