Zermatt is worth the drive, even when you are based in Cervinia and the lift link over the top is shut.
I skied both sides of the Matterhorn in January 2022, staying on the Italian side in Breuil-Cervinia and crossing into Switzerland for a day in Zermatt.
First look from above, just after noon: snow, rock, and a valley that drops away fast.
Base Camp on the Italian Side
I spent the afternoon of 29 January in town. At about 1:30 pm I walked past the fountain in the centre, with the Matterhorn rising behind the church.
The Cervinia fountain, and the Matterhorn from its Italian side.
Testa Grigia, at 3,480 metres, is an official border between Switzerland and Italy, so skiing across is an international crossing.
The plan was to ski over the top into Switzerland. A lift link joins the two resorts, but it is not always seamless. High winds can close it, and they did.
Driving Round to Ski Zermatt
So I drove from Cervinia to ski Zermatt for the day instead. It is a long way round by road, and I would do it again. By about 10:40 am on 30 January I was standing under the other face of the Matterhorn, sun up, pistes groomed, and the peak looking like the sharp, lopsided shape everyone knows from the postcards. Of everything on this trip, that was the morning that made it.
A skier, and the Matterhorn from the Swiss side.
Goggles up for one photo, then back to skiing.
The International ski pass covers Zermatt plus Breuil-Cervinia and Valtournenche. Buy it if you plan to cross; check current pass rules before you go.
After that it was straight onto the groomed runs. The corduroy was still crisp at about 10:50 am.
Corduroy, blue sky, and the Matterhorn at the top of the run.
Since July 2023, a cable car links Matterhorn Glacier Paradise and Testa Grigia: the Alps’ highest cross-border cable car.
At about 11:10 am I found the giant Zermatt letters on the slopes. Everyone stops for this one, me included.
The Zermatt letters, with the Matterhorn as the backdrop.
Swiss heli-skiing may only land at designated mountain sites. Monte Rosa, above Zermatt, is one, at about 4,094 metres.
Which Side Suits You
My pick for a ski week: base yourself on one side and keep a day free for the other. Cervinia worked as my base, and the day in Zermatt is the one I still talk about.
If you want more than the pistes, Zermatt is also a starting point for heli-skiing.
Heli-skiing from Zermatt runs with a certified mountain guide, and the landing site depends on snow and avalanche conditions. Check before you go.
Before you book, these are the three things I would sort first.
Buy the International ski pass if you plan to ski both sides; check current rules before you go.
Carry a passport or ID card. Testa Grigia is an official border.
Wind can close the link between the resorts, so keep a plan B, like driving round for a day.
Zermatt and Cervinia: two resorts, one mountain, and a car for the day the wind won. Thank you for reading along.